62: Whole Channel Island Red Sea Urchin at Water Grill

Leading up to this year's Best of L.A. issue (due out Oct. 4), we'll be counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes.

62: Whole Channel Island Red Sea Urchin at Water Grill.

There's a lot to indulge in at Water Grill. There's the rotating list of oysters on the half shell. There's the iced shellfish platters with oysters, shrimp, clams and lobster. There's even a pound of prime rib eye if that's what floats your boat.

But perhaps our favorite extravagance at Water Grill is the whole Channel Island red sea urchin. Harvested off of the California coast and served here beside its spiny shell, the heaping pumpkin-colored roe is as sexy as food gets — creamy, rich, ridiculously indulgent. Added to its outrageous oceanic funk is a perfumy, almost otherworldly flavor, like a whisper of flower garden injected into something pulled up from the bottom of the ocean.

Like ice cream, oysters and fancy perfume all rolled into one weird, fantastic few mouthfuls, it's food at its most arresting, its most magical. As a mid-afternoon snack with a glass of champagne, it's the ultimate act of self indulgence.

100: Lukshon's Dan Dan Noodles

99: Cemita de Milanesa at Cemitas Poblanos Elviritas #1

98: Chichen Itza's Cochinita Pibil

97: Tsukemen at Tsujita L.A.

96: La Cevicheria's Bloody Clam Ceviche

95: Duck Shawarma at Momed

94: Peruvian Chicken at Pollo a la Brasa

93: Squash Blossom Quesadilla at Antojitos Carmen

92: Thai Boat Noodles at Pa-Ord

91: Baco Mercat's Bazole

90: Furikake Kettle Corn at A-Frame

89: Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns at Providence

88: Fried Pig Tails at Night + Market

87: Egg Salad Sandwich at Euro Pane

86: Galbi Jjim at Soban

85: Truffle Honey-Laced Fried Chicken at Manhattan Beach Post

84: Mool Naeng Myun at Yu Chic Naeng Myun

83: Chicken Vampiro at Mexicali Taco & Co

82: Sooo Cali Dog at Dog Haus

81: White Anchovy, Tomato and Fresno Chile Pizza at Pizzeria Mozza

80: Shu Mai at Elite Restaurant

79: Tandoori Chicken at Al-Watan

78: Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding at The Hungry Cat

77: Agedashi Tofu at Izakaya Bincho

76: Pork Chop at Salt's Cure

75: Porcetto at Sotto

74: The Sea Urchin Tostada at La Guerrerense

73: Wood-Roasted English Peas at Tar & Roses

72: Persian Mulberries at Weiser Family Farms

71: Hunan-Style Preserved Pork with Tofu at Hunan Chilli King

70: Brisket Banh Mi at Gjelina Take Away

69: Yukhwe Bibimbap at Oo-Kook Korean BBQ

68: Lamb Pie at Beijing Pie House

67: Son of a Gun's Uni and Burrata

66: Pastrami Reuben at Art's Delicatessen

65: Beef Koobideh at Kabab Mahaleh

64: The Whipper Burger at Hawkins House of Burgers

63: Slippery Shrimp at Yang Chow