Garrett SnyderLeading up to this year's Best of L.A. issue (due out Oct. 4), we'll be counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes.
56: Smothered Chicken at R & R Soul Food.
A good soul food plate should be formidable. It should make you worry whether you are going to be able make the drive home without falling asleep, never mind cleaning your plate. At Carson's R & R Soul Food, a former branch of M & M Soul Food that was taken over by an enterprising cook, the smothered chicken reigns supreme — and believe us, it will put the fear of God into you (and not just because of the all-African-American Last Supper portrait hanging in the dining room).
It starts with good fried chicken: dusted with flour and fried until its skin becomes chicharron-crisp, while the white meat inside remains plump and juicy. Then comes a tidal wave of dark brown gravy, rich, thick, and flavored with sautéed onions. Actually the plate is entirely covered in gravy (the kitchen must pour the stuff on with a cement mixer). Somehow though, like Noah's ark bobbing amongst the flood, the chicken retains its crunch.
If it were possible to eat only the side dishes here — soft cornbread muffins, mac n' cheese, sweet buttered corn, vinegar-lashed collard greens, or candied yams sweet enough to dissolve fillings — you would probably be comfortable and content. But that won't happen. When you're worshipping at a temple of home-cooking like R & R's, the only way to do it is to overdo it. Luckily, they're pretty helpful about leftovers — and refills on sweet tea.
Check out the rest of our 100 of our favorite dishes. Suggestion? Write us a comment.
100: Lukshon's Dan Dan Noodles
99: Cemita de Milanesa at Cemitas Poblanos Elviritas #1
98: Chichen Itza's Cochinita Pibil
96: La Cevicheria's Bloody Clam Ceviche
94: Peruvian Chicken at Pollo a la Brasa
93: Squash Blossom Quesadilla at Antojitos Carmen
92: Thai Boat Noodles at Pa-Ord
90: Furikake Kettle Corn at A-Frame
89: Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns at Providence
88: Fried Pig Tails at Night + Market
87: Egg Salad Sandwich at Euro Pane
85: Truffle Honey-Laced Fried Chicken at Manhattan Beach Post
84: Mool Naeng Myun at Yu Chic Naeng Myun
83: Chicken Vampiro at Mexicali Taco & Co
81: White Anchovy, Tomato and Fresno Chile Pizza at Pizzeria Mozza
80: Shu Mai at Elite Restaurant
79: Tandoori Chicken at Al-Watan
78: Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding at The Hungry Cat
77: Agedashi Tofu at Izakaya Bincho
74: The Sea Urchin Tostada at La Guerrerense
73: Wood-Roasted English Peas at Tar & Roses
72: Persian Mulberries at Weiser Family Farms
71: Hunan-Style Preserved Pork with Tofu at Hunan Chilli King
70: Brisket Banh Mi at Gjelina Take Away
69: Yukhwe Bibimbap at Oo-Kook Korean BBQ
68: Lamb Pie at Beijing Pie House
67: Son of a Gun's Uni and Burrata
66: Pastrami Reuben at Art's Delicatessen
65: Beef Koobideh at Kabab Mahaleh
64: The Whipper Burger at Hawkins House of Burgers
63: Slippery Shrimp at Yang Chow
62: Whole Channel Island Red Sea Urchin at Water Grill
61: Going Dutch Panini at Bread Lounge
60: Huckleberry's Green Eggs & Ham
59: Pickled Watermelon Salad at L&E Oyster Bar
58: Spaghettini with Abalone, Pickled Cod Roe and Truffles at n/naka
57: Brown Brown Bread Ice Cream at Scoops Westside
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