Comme Ca: Burger

Comme Ça has only one burger on its menu. No mix and match toppings. No extreme sauces. No customization or crazy combos. One incongruous but perfect burger.

Meat & Bun: It's no secret that the French brasserie's $16 cheeseburger, now served at lunch and dinner, is considered one of the best in town. Does it live up to those claims? Yes.

No hype. No heap of fussy toppings. Just a hockey puck of high-quality aged beef, rich, flavorful and juicy enough to marinate every bite but not the least bit greasy. The patty is thick, not as coarsely ground as some and loosely held together. It's just the size it should be, which is to say only slightly larger than propriety demands but not hefty enough to make the eater feel weary.

It's blanketed in cheddar and topped with a scoop of very basic slaw, only cabbage and mayo, maybe a bit of salt. And finally, a golden brioche-style bun with some structural integrity. A bun that's pliant but not wimpy. A bun that survives the consumption of the entire burger. A bun for the ages.

Comme Ca: Exterior

Sides: Sitting alongside the perfect gourmet burger should be a pile of perfect fries. Instead, there's a generous cone of limp, mushy fries, strikingly similar to the ones at In-N-Out. (Fighting words for some Southern California burger fans, but we've tried Five Guys. We have seen the light.) If only someone could pair the spectacular French fries at FarmShop with the burger at Comme Ça, the entire plate would achieve perfection.

Dessert: Comme Ça has half-a-dozen desserts, any of which would pair nicely with the burger. For the upscale version of the all-American burger and apple pie, we recommend Comme Ça's burger and tarte tatin.

The Upshot: Forget the fries, and eat this burger now. The word “perfect” comes up a lot. That's because it is.

Exercise: None.

Previously…

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