Amy ScattergoodCelebrating this year's Best of L.A. issue — now out in print and online — we're counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes.
1: Spago's Veal Filet Mignon Tartare.
When it arrives at your table, Wolfgang Puck's iteration of veal tartare may look more like a Sally Mann photograph than your dinner. But inside the twin marrow bones is not, well, marrow, but the centerpiece of a beautifully orchestrated dish. A perfect dice of raw veal — neither too coarse nor too fine, the mistake some chefs make with tartare — is topped with a thin layer of smoked mascarpone, a visual reference to the fine strata of fat that comes atop many ramekins of pâté.
The veal, a combination of the loin and tenderloin, is buttery and minimally seasoned, the smoked mascarpone, a drizzle of Tuscan olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt providing counterpoint. Accompanying the bone pillars is a tangle of lightly dressed greens and fried garlic, two crisp baguette toasts — stacked lengthwise like planks at a tiny construction site — and a small pool of caper and shallot-laced mustard sauce. You're given a dainty spoon with which to lever the tartare onto your toasts, a utensil that will possibly engender dreams of high tea service.
And if you've tired, over the years, of the more predictable variations of steak tartare, often comprised of bland cuts of beef, maybe topped with a raw quail egg like an afterthought, this dish will erase all sad memories. It's a playful, perfectly executed and incredibly flavorful take on a classic presentation. Order the dish, and maybe some others. Sit in the patio. Pray for rain, if only so that you can watch the roof roll in overhead like mechanical cloud cover.
Spago's veal tartar; Credit: A. Scattergood
100: Lukshon's Dan Dan Noodles
99: Cemita de Milanesa at Cemitas Poblanos Elviritas #1
98: Chichen Itza's Cochinita Pibil
96: La Cevicheria's Bloody Clam Ceviche
94: Peruvian Chicken at Pollo a la Brasa
93: Squash Blossom Quesadilla at Antojitos Carmen
92: Thai Boat Noodles at Pa-Ord
90: Furikake Kettle Corn at A-Frame
89: Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns at Providence
88: Fried Pig Tails at Night + Market
87: Egg Salad Sandwich at Euro Pane
85: Truffle Honey-Laced Fried Chicken at Manhattan Beach Post
84: Mool Naeng Myun at Yu Chic Naeng Myun
83: Chicken Vampiro at Mexicali Taco & Co
81: White Anchovy, Tomato and Fresno Chile Pizza at Pizzeria Mozza
80: Shu Mai at Elite Restaurant
79: Tandoori Chicken at Al-Watan
78: Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding at The Hungry Cat
77: Agedashi Tofu at Izakaya Bincho
74: The Sea Urchin Tostada at La Guerrerense
73: Wood-Roasted English Peas at Tar & Roses
72: Persian Mulberries at Weiser Family Farms
71: Hunan-Style Preserved Pork with Tofu at Hunan Chilli King
70: Brisket Banh Mi at Gjelina Take Away
69: Yukhwe Bibimbap at Oo-Kook Korean BBQ
68: Lamb Pie at Beijing Pie House
67: Son of a Gun's Uni and Burrata
66: Pastrami Reuben at Art's Delicatessen
65: Beef Koobideh at Kabab Mahaleh
64: The Whipper Burger at Hawkins House of Burgers
63: Slippery Shrimp at Yang Chow
62: Whole Channel Island Red Sea Urchin at Water Grill
61: Going Dutch Panini at Bread Lounge
60: Huckleberry's Green Eggs & Ham
59: Pickled Watermelon Salad at L&E Oyster Bar
58: Spaghettini with Abalone, Pickled Cod Roe and Truffles at n/naka
57: Brown Brown Bread Ice Cream at Scoops Westside
56: Smothered Chicken at R and R Soul Food
53: The Sycamore Kitchen's Double BLT-A Sandwich
52: House Wonton Soup at China Cafe
51: Almond Croissant at Proof Bakery
50: The Southern Fry at Plan Check Kitchen + Bar
49: The Dodger Dog at Dodger Stadium
47: Lucky Baldwins' Traditional Full English Breakfast
46: Edomae Tendon Bowl at Hannosuke
45: The Pescado Zarandeado at Coni'Seafood
43: Raw Kale Salad at Elf Cafe
42: Steak Tartare Tacos at MessHall
40: Sicilian Slice at Pizzanista
39: Grilled Baby Goat T-bone at Mozza's Scuola di Pizza Salumi Bar
37: The Island Combo at TiGeorges' Chicken
36: Tacos Al Pastor at Tacos Leo
35: “Sandwich” at Roma Italian Deli
33: Cauliflower T-Bone at Superba Snack Bar
32: Pupusa Revuelta at Atlacatl
31: Bonjiri Yakitori at Kokekokko
30: Crispy Pork with Morning Glory at Crispy Pork Gang & Grill
29: Sashimi Special at Sushi Gen
28: Tamal de Mole Negro at Guelaguetza
27: The Hickoryburger at Apple Pan
26: Lobster Thermidor at Musso & Frank's
25: Poached Pear Coupe at Tavern
24: Coconut Bavarois at Red Medicine
23: The Tasting Kitchen's Pork Rillettes
21: Anson Mills Grits & Eggs at Milo & Olive
20: Lamb Dip at Philippe the Original
19: Salsa de Chorizo Con Cesina at Gish Bac
18: Matsuhisa's Yellowtail Scallion Donburi
17: Green Curry Mussels at Jitlada
16: Creamy Pumpkin Soup at BierBeisl
15: Fish Taco from Ricky's Fish Tacos
14: Spago's Baked Jonagold Apple
13: Rivera's Tortillas Florales
11: Sugar and Spice Beignets at Hatfield's
9: Pastrami on Rye at Langer's Delicatessen
8: Smoked Salmon with Mango at Kiriko
7. Water-Boiled Fish at Chung King.
6. Mole de los Dioses at Rocio's Mole de los Dioses
4: Butterscotch Budino at Mozza
3: Roasted Kabocha Squash at Lucques
2: Philly Cheesesteak at The Bazaar
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