[Editor's note: Odd Future member Lionel Boyce writes a weekly column for West Coast Sound. His archives are available here.]
During my 20 years of living, I have accomplished many things and acquired many skills. One of the more impressive things that stands out is the brief period when I took the surfing world by storm.
Surfing came as naturally to me as picking up a spoon to eat a bowl of cereal would come to a dog if they had opposable thumbs, which would be very natural because they are fast learners. My first time surfing was when I was 9 years old. I remember it as if it were 11 years ago. I had been on punishment for wandering off and getting lost while at Macy's with my mom and was not allowed to go outside.
While stuck in the house watching TV, I came across a surfing competition. After five minutes of watching I turned to Rocket Power, which is a cartoon about young kids surfing. Unfortunately my mom came in and caught me watching TV, which got me in more trouble.
Still, watching those shows gave me a new calling. When I got off punishment I decided to try exactly what I had seen on television and headed to the beach. It was a violent storm that day and there were huge waves around 10 feet high crashing into one another. I was slightly intimidated at first, but after playing "Return of the Mack" by Mark Morrison repeatedly in my head, I worked up enough nerve to take on the waves.
I grabbed my board and swam out into the water, but the waves began to settle because the big one was coming. I waited for a few minutes, and just when I was getting ready to swim back to shore, I looked back to see a wave 100 feet high charging straight at me.