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Charcuterie

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Charcuterie

5 Great L.A. Restaurants for House-Made Charcuterie

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Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 8:00 AM

The inventory at Chi Spacca - ANNE FISHBEIN
  • Anne Fishbein
  • The inventory at Chi Spacca
Leading up to this year's Best of L.A. issue (due out Oct. 3), we'll be bringing you periodic lists of some of the best things we've found to eat and drink around town. Ice cream sandwiches and bowls of tsukemen, fish tacos and dan dan mian, cups of boba and glasses of booze. Read on.

The charcuterie revolution is upon us. Chefs all over the city are curing, whipping, stuffing and slicing, turning out world class meats and sausages that a few years ago would have been impossible to find. While there have always been many restaurants serving salamis and pâtés made elsewhere, there's now an explosion of in-house charcuterie.

Making your own charcuterie is no joke -- it takes time, precision, space and a whole lot of care and talent. With this in mind, we'd like to recognize the five folks in Los Angeles who are doing it well. Turn the page for the five best charcuterie plates in the city.

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Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Charcuterie

Meat Feet: Socks to Sink Your Teeth Into

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Tue, Jul 23, 2013 at 9:54 AM

BETABRAND
  • Betabrand
Once people didn't even want to know how sausage was made. Now they not only make their own sausage, they also deign to wear it on their feet.

No, chorizo flip-flops do not yet exist. (Think of the dogs that would chase the saucy orange trail you'd leave behind.) We're writing today of socks designed to resemble charcuterie. Apparel-needy public, meet Meat Feet, a line of foot sleeves designed by San Francisco offal advocate and excellent chef Chris Cosentino. Remember, he's the dude who invented Gluttony Pants.

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Friday, October 26, 2012

The Stave, a wine and beer bar, opens in Downtown Long Beach tonight - THE STAVE
  • The Stave
  • The Stave, a wine and beer bar, opens in Downtown Long Beach tonight
"What's this going to be?" a passerby yells into the cavernous, under-construction site at the corner of Broadway and Downtown Long Beach's Promenade. "Not a chain, I hope."

Two weeks before the doors roll up and any Pilsner is poured, Natalie van Waardenburg and Garry Muir are walking through The Stave, their soon-to-be wine and beer bar. The space looks far from finished, and the furniture arrives tomorrow. Their expressions alternate between unwavering confidence and disbelief as they mull over what has to be done in the next 14 days. Muir offers a private tour inside the dual-compartment walk-in refrigerator, while van Waardenburg opens boxes and inspects doorknobs. The electricians and builders are busy tying up loose ends. The toilet seat cover dispensers have not been hung in the right spots. There's always something. But no, this will not be a chain.

The Stave is Muir's second project -- he's co-owner of downtown Los Angeles' Corkbar -- and a first for van Waardenburg and their third partner, John Murawski. It took about a year to settle on the location, but the outdoor patio and welcoming atmosphere from the city and surrounding businesses sealed the deal. Long Beach is in the process of growing the Promenade (like Santa Monica's Third Street), a six-block stretch of restaurants, retail and residential units, like the 62 condominiums above the bar.

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Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Eggs and Poultry - FIREFLY BOOKS
The cottage food law buzz is a timely reminder: Not all good books come in glossy, high-dollar commercial packaging. Consider two new releases from Canadian publisher Firefly Books' "Made at Home" series, Curing and Smoking and Eggs and Poultry.

Both novel-sized paperbacks are written by Dick and James Strawbridge, who have appeared on BBC's It's Not Easy Being Green series. Just the sort of urban homesteaders you'd hope would write books like these. Only something about the odd color palette of both covers looks like they were -- How to say it politely? -- bound at Kinko's. We almost dismissed them on first glance (the cover images look much better online than they do on the books themselves).

But flip through the pages, and two fantastic little books with great step-by-steps -- and photographs -- are revealed.

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Friday, April 27, 2012

Chef Michael Bryant - RYAN ABELMAN
  • Ryan Abelman
  • Chef Michael Bryant
In Los Angeles, hitting the 40-year mark usually means it's time for a facelift. So when 41-year-old West Hollywood restaurant Mirabelle announced it would be closing for some updates, customers needn't have been shocked.

What could rightfully come as a surprise, though, is the culinary direction the former Californian/Mediterranean restaurant is taking: Owners George and Lenore Gemanides have brought in chef Michael Bryant (Palihouse, Father's Office, Norman's), who will be developing a "seafood charcuterie" menu for the restaurant.

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Monday, March 5, 2012

Clockwise from top left: Adrian Biggs and Adam Fleischman; Chris Cosentino; pastrami on rye from the Cure; rilette in a can at Pigg; the Back Bar's mise en place - KRISTA SIMMONS
  • Krista Simmons
  • Clockwise from top left: Adrian Biggs and Adam Fleischman; Chris Cosentino; pastrami on rye from the Cure; rilette in a can at Pigg; the Back Bar's mise en place

Up until Saturday, Broadway Street in downtown L.A. was a great place to be if you were in search of a bedazzled quinceañera dress, a solid gold watch, an art deco architecture tour or a decent torta. But in terms of modern dining, Historic Broadway wasn't quite the hot bed of hipsterdom that the neighboring Arts District and Gallery Row had become.

This weekend's opening of Adam Fleischman's UMAMIcatessen marked the start of a new wave of businesses that have hopes of breathing life into the area, including the upcoming Los Angeles Brewing Company, a remodeled Clifton's Cafeteria, Two Boots Pizza, Figaro Bistro, and the true mark of indie establishment, an Ace Hotel. Fleischman partnered with a serious powerhouse team for the five-restaurant food hall, including James Beard-nominated chef Chris Cosentino and Adrian Biggs of Harvard & Stone, to create a unique urban dining experience.

We stopped by to check out the space and what's on the menu. For a virtual tour, turn the page.

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Monday, January 17, 2011

art_of_charcuterie.jpg
That $625 list price of the forthcoming Modernist Cuisine cookbook may be getting all the attention, but there are few cookbooks that can get away with even a $65 list price. Unless you're talking about cured meat. In particular, The Art of Charcuterie by John Kowalski, a culinary instructor at the Culinary Institute of America.

That the book is not too narrow of a single-subject study is why this is one of those rare reference books that gets undivided attention both in the kitchen and on the nightstand. A book you will want to cook from some days, simply learn from others (not that we don't love Bacon). The precise culinary school step-by-step recipe layout makes that dry-cured pancetta and "straight-method forcemeat" (a basic recipe for a terrine or pâté) seem much easier to make than they are -- although they still take several hours and plenty of counter space to make. Yet for a culinary school cookbook, this book is a rare home-cook friendly version with detailed directions (culinary school recipes are notoriously drill-sergeant brief) and quantities in ounces and cups rather than simply grams. A charcuterie book for fanatics, yes, but an approachable one.

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Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Charcuterie

Pigging Out: 5 Spots for Charcuterie

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Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 8:00 AM

Los Angeles may be known as the land of vegan baked goods and brown rice sushi, but plenty of local chefs also turn out damn fine charcuterie, the prepared meat products (proscuitto, pâtés, terrines, sausages, etc.) that are a celebration of all things animal. Most often made from pork, charcuterie was originally conceived as a way to keep meat from spoiling before the advent of refrigeration. Now, it only spoils our diets. Here, a side-by-side comparison of a few of the city's best.

The Prince charcuterie board at Waterloo & City - R. BROWN
  • R. Brown
  • The Prince charcuterie board at Waterloo & City

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