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Food in Pop Culture

The Bridge's Elwood Reid on Juárez-Style Ceviche, and Why The Best Place to Eat in Hawaii is at Chicken Fights

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Tue, Aug 27, 2013 at 8:00 AM

click to enlarge Elwood Reid - FX
  • FX
  • Elwood Reid
It's easy to embrace FX's atmospheric new series The Bridge as a darkly compelling crime drama. But the part we love, the part that makes The Bridge feel so exotic, is how vividly it captures life on the U.S.-Mexico border. Set in the neighboring towns of El Paso and Cuidad Juárez, The Bridge (like Bron/Broen the Swedish-Danish series that it is based on) involves a murder being solved in two languages while issues of identity and national pride bubble just below the surface.

In a way, as the series moves forward, the hunt for the killer becomes almost secondary to how a pair of odd couple cops -- Diane Kruger plays Det. Sonya Cross of the El Paso PD and Demian Bechir's Marco Ruiz works for the Chihuahua state police -- get to know and understand each other. The tension and politics between the two countries doesn't have to be referenced: For anyone who follows the news, it's the churning context of the show.

To get the delicate, complicated vibe of The Bridge down, novelist/Bridge co-executive producer Elwood Reid knew he'd have to try to figure out what made Juárez tick as well as how it related to El Paso. Along the way Reid was admonished by border guards (for, according to them, imperiling co-executive producer Meredith Stiehm by bringing her on one of his visits) and cajoled into taking Bridge star Diane Kruger on a similar but more clandestine journey. "She's very German. When she says she's going to do something, she's going to do it," says Reid who was so sure he'd be fired if the studio discovered he'd taken her to Juárez that he didn't tell them until months later.

He also ate a lot of food. Recently, we caught up with Reid by phone to talk about the cuisine of Juárez, how he rates El Paso restaurants, and where he weighs in on the Sonya Cross problem.

click to enlarge Demian Bechir and Diane Kruger - FX
  • FX
  • Demian Bechir and Diane Kruger
Squid Ink: You spent a few days and nights in Ciudad Juárez. Talk to us about the state of Chihuahua's traditional cuisine.

Elwood Reid: It's beef-and-pork heavy. Not much fish and not a lot of chicken. From what I understand Ciudad Juárez is a weird hodge-podge because it's a town that people come to from all over Mexico to work in the factories. It doesn't even have that identity even from the locals. But the food there is amazing.

SI: What were some of the things you ate?

ER: They had a lot of weird ceviches, almost like sushi. A guy took me to one of the best restaurants in Juárez and ceviche was on the menu as ceviche/sushi. I thought, "I'm not going to order fish in Juárez. There's no ocean nearby." But it was really, really good. It was tuna and some other kind of fish that they treated with chile. And giant volcanic bowls of cactus salsa and roasted onions and weird chunks of octopus. The moles were good too. The best place I went to was a taco place called Tacos Ajijiji. Pronounced eye-yeeeeeee! Amazing place.

SI: Highlights please.

ER: You walk in there and they have this sort of habanero slaw -- cabbage and pickles and chiles. They bring the grill and meat out to your table. The most amazing queso fundido. They didn't have any fucking idea who Diane Kruger was. But the guy realized, "This is a really beautiful gringa," and was so happy to see us, and he took us into the back of the restaurant -- it was the cleanest, nicest kitchen I've ever been in -- and he showed us all the food he was making. It was really simple -- what we would call street food -- but amazing.

SI: How does El Paso compare?

ER: What I find puzzling about El Paso is that it's eighty per cent Hispanic but unless people took me to the wrong places, you can find better Mexican food in Glendale. [A local] took me to a restaurant and said, "This is the best Mexican food." It was a chain, and that is sad. They said, [excitedly] "You've got to try the fried jalapeño peppers." It's like Chi Chi's food. Not good.

SI: When Bridge star Demian Bechir was 22, he famously moved to New York from Mexico City. He wanted to make it as an actor but instead he ended up working at Rosa Mexicano preparing guacamole tableside. There is no question here. We just like the dreamy image.

ER: I think he probably got by with charm. [laughs]

SI: Are you saying that you don't think Demian Bechir can make a proper guacamole?

ER: No, no, no! He knows how to cook. But if Demian Bechir is making you guacamole it's just going to taste a lot better than some guy who is bald and sweating. Also [chef and Rosa Mexicano co-founder Josefina Howard] is the real deal. I'll bet that his [guacamole] was highly regulated. I've not had it yet. He did bring me hot sauce one time. It was really, really, really good hot sauce in a little plastic container.

SI: Which brings us to a recent episode of The Bridge where Sonya has dinner at Marco's house and refuses to eat his wife's enchiladas. What could possibly be wrong with them?

ER: There's nothing wrong with her enchiladas. Sonya doesn't like Mexican food and has no social graces. It's like when you give a kid meatloaf and they don't want to eat it. She just says whatever she thinks out loud.

SI: The TV-watching world is divided on Sonya Cross. What do you say to people who think she's cold and bitchy?

ER: I knew going in that this was going to be a problem. First of all, I think its total bullshit that you have to like your characters. I only think you have to find them interesting. If you have watched the original you know that that woman cannot be described as likeable. You learn to like her because you understand how she operates.

SI: Meaning that you come to understand what it is like to be someone with Asperger's struggling with the everyday world?

ER: I always thought, and you can correct me if I'm wrong, but what helped you understand the Sonya character in the original is the Marco character. As their relationship got better and got deeper, I thought as an audience member, I fell in love with her. I could see her trying to make this guy like her. You could see him liking her despite all of her rough edges and oddities. That's the growth of the show. If she started out likeable in the beginning, we'd have nowhere to go.

SI: In the original version, her Asperger's is never actually addressed. Where do you weigh in on the debate about identifying what is wrong with Sonya?

ER: Someone said that she should look at the camera and say she's autistic. That's the last thing in the world that someone who has autism or Asperger's wants to do. They want to try to pass. I tried in this series to make you understand what happened to Sonya. I don't think it makes her warm and fuzzy but at least it helps you understand that she grew up in a small town in Texas and that a lot of stuff happened to her and they protected her. She probably never was officially diagnosed with Asperger's.

SI: What else do Bridge fans want to know?

ER: They all want to know who the killer is.

SI: In last week's episode the investigation appeared close to resolution. That's an unusual tack for a show like this, no?

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