5 Great L.A. Restaurants for House-Made Charcuterie | Squid Ink | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly

5 Great L.A. Restaurants for House-Made Charcuterie

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Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 8:00 AM

click to enlarge The inventory at Chi Spacca - ANNE FISHBEIN
  • Anne Fishbein
  • The inventory at Chi Spacca
Leading up to this year's Best of L.A. issue (due out Oct. 3), we'll be bringing you periodic lists of some of the best things we've found to eat and drink around town. Ice cream sandwiches and bowls of tsukemen, fish tacos and dan dan mian, cups of boba and glasses of booze. Read on.

The charcuterie revolution is upon us. Chefs all over the city are curing, whipping, stuffing and slicing, turning out world class meats and sausages that a few years ago would have been impossible to find. While there have always been many restaurants serving salamis and pâtés made elsewhere, there's now an explosion of in-house charcuterie.

Making your own charcuterie is no joke -- it takes time, precision, space and a whole lot of care and talent. With this in mind, we'd like to recognize the five folks in Los Angeles who are doing it well. Turn the page for the five best charcuterie plates in the city.

5. Gorge

Gorge, a funny little restaurant on the Sunset Strip, is turning out some serious charcuterie. Owned by chefs Elia Aboumrad and Uyen Nguyen (you may recognize Aboumrad from Top Chef season 2 and Top Chef All Stars), the restaurant focusses on French country cooking, which means lots of rustic terrines (think pheasant, wild salmon, etc.), saucisson sec, rillets and house-made fresh sausages. 8917 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; 310-657-6328.

click to enlarge Mini charcuterie plate at Church & State - CHRISTINE CHIAO
  • Christine Chiao
  • Mini charcuterie plate at Church & State
4. Church & State

Manning the stoves at Church & State these days is former Patina chef and Ducasse protege Tony Esnault, and he has a way with all things simple and classic and French, including charcuterie. His cured pig is silken and lightly smoky, his rillettes mellow and gloriously fat-laden. And this is one of the best chicken liver mousses anywhere -- rich, tangy and glistening. 1850 Industrial St. Los Angeles; 213-405-1434.

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