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At Bäco Mercat, which Josef Centeno opened in the fall of 2011, the chef-owner has a wildly eclectic approach to food that is less fusion than playful, global mix-and-match cuisine. Born and raised in Texas, trained at Daniel Boulud and Manresa, and with a penchant for Spanish sauces and Mexican home cooking, Centeno loads his menus with enough flavors and adjectives for a half-dozen restaurants. Consider the bäco itself, a taco-gyro-pizza hybrid that the chef invented once for a staff meal at Meson G -- and then the bäzole, a sort of Vietnamese play on posole, engendered by the bäco. Imagine Dizzy Gillespie with a saucepan and recent gluttonous memories of San Sebastián and you get an idea of how much fun Centeno is having -- and how much fun it is to eat here. 408 S. Main St. Los Angeles; 213-687-8808.