Pico and Point View Street: Fried Fish and a Pizza-Indian Food Mashup | Squid Ink | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly

Pico and Point View Street: Fried Fish and a Pizza-Indian Food Mashup

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Wed, May 29, 2013 at 6:00 AM

click to enlarge Fried Sole at Penguin Fish & Chips - NOAM BLEIWEISS
  • Noam Bleiweiss
  • Fried Sole at Penguin Fish & Chips
It's always nice to find a solid "you buy, we fry" fish shop, even if they're often tucked into the corners of one-off strip malls. That's where you'll find Penguin Fish & Chips, a soul food-leaning fish fry spot on Pico Boulevard. Moving west around the parking lot, you'll find an odd Indian-NY pizza slice spot, a dry cleaning operation, the weirdest health food store (store?) you've ever seen, a coin-op laundry and the ubiquitous 7-11 that anchors any strip mall worth its pavement.

This is an peculiar stretch of Pico Blvd., with Little Ethiopia to the north, the Kosher corridor to the west and that odd L.A. Burger stand with the mislabeled banner proclaiming them champions of an invisible burger war. Still, strip malls have a way of surprising you, even when you think you've seen -- and tasted -- it all.

click to enlarge New York Pizza and Golden Indian Grill - NOAM BLEIWEISS
  • Noam Bleiweiss
  • New York Pizza and Golden Indian Grill

New York Pizza & Golden Indian Grill

You're going to be a little overwhelmed the first time you walk into New York Pizza & Golden Indian Grill. There's pizza, sure -- big wide single slices that come in well under $3 and are dripping with oil -- but there's also, of course, Indian food -- a few chicken-based full plates and an underwhelming lunch steamer. Still, that may not be why you're going to be so out of sorts the first time you step into the haphazardly shaped space. It's that damn digital mural plastered to the back wall. Four impossible strangers, all mid-chew and glimmering with handfuls of food from off the menu, have been superimposed over a photo of a pizza! These four floating, legless humans are blown up to a size just bigger than real life, so that they seem odd and misshapen, plus they're surrounded by a not-so-innocent halo of fuzzy Photoshop filtering that is quite unsettling. And just to really nail that whole 'classic New York' feel, a run of computerized brick frames out the bottom of the image as it falls towards the floor. It would be hard to imagine a second New York pizza / Indian food mashup restaurant anywhere in the world, but if one exists it surely lacks this mural, making this strip mall gem truly one-of-a-kind.

Most folks, when they're done gawking at the mural, manage to pull together the $5 needed for a lunch combo. Of course, the only thing you'll actually find on the menu that breaks the $10 barrier is a dinner for two, but there's still something so satisfying about a lunch that comes in under six bucks. You get one vegetable curry, one meat curry (chicken, most likely, although goat is available) and heap of plain white rice. The naan will set you back just over $1.25 extra, but it's worth the indulgence for some surprisingly springy, heat-spotted bread. As for the pizza, it's of the Pizza Hut variety, with a thick, stiff crust and slightly undercooked interior. The cheese tends to pool together instead of string out after you've pulled off a bite, and the -- beef? uh oh -- pepperoni is little more than a cupping device for more oil. Still, at $5 for a large cheese pizza, it's a step up from the cottage Hot-n'-Ready pizza industry that has kept college kids alive for centuries. 5954 W. Pico Blvd., Mid-City; 323-930-2193.

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