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Cookbooks

10 Great Cookbooks for Summer

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Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 7:58 AM

click to enlarge A. SCATTERGOOD
  • A. Scattergood
Sure, you may have a dozen newly opened gastropubs within Yelp distance from where you live. Or food trucks. Or, arguably best of all, neighborhood taquerias. But in summer, when L.A. farmers markets are loaded with gorgeous produce, sometimes it's more fun to cook your own dinner. Just to prove you still can.

For such moments, we turn to our favorite cookbooks -- or more specifically, certain of our favorite cookbooks. Because in this weather, and with some pretty stunning fruit and vegetables available every day of the week somewhere, you're probably not going to be making cassoulet. Rather you might be looking for cookbooks that focus on produce, with lots of vegetarian options, with salads and whole grains, and maybe the occasional foray into spice and heat. Turn the page for 10 of our favorite cookbooks for summer, listed alphabetically by author. Sure, it's a subjective list (most all of them are). If we've left off your absolute favorite, just let us know. You can never have too many great cookbooks.

click to enlarge AMAZON
  • Amazon
10. Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard, by Nigel Slater:

This is the British cookbook author's follow-up to Tender, his book about vegetables, in which Slater turns his attention to the fruit in his enviable backyard, a 40-foot garden in London. And this is not just a cookbook about pies and crumbles: Slater has an impressive scope, giving us recipes for savory dishes (pheasant with apples and cider or verjus; a plum tabbouleh), drinks (sloe gin) and salads (a salad of peaches, mozzarella and basil).

Impressive in length -- coming in at 581 pages -- and with stunning photos by Jonathan Lovekin, it's a book that's worth carting with you to the farmers market when you go. And just because Slater does more than desserts here does not mean you should ignore them: the blackberry focaccia alone is worth the price of the book. (Ten Speed Press, 2012.)

click to enlarge AMAZON
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9. Mediterranean Harvest, by Martha Rose Shulman:

A vegetarian cookbook by local author and New York Times "Recipes for Health" columnist Martha Rose Shulman, Mediterranean Harvest is encyclopedic in scope, which more than makes up for the lack of photographs. With creative and easy recipes -- fattoush; grilled zucchini, goat cheese and mint panini; fennel and scallion pie -- the book also includes recipes and tips for the basics. Not the super boring stuff, but truly useful things like how to properly steam store-bought couscous.

Shulman has also helped write many chef cookbooks, including those by Sherry Yard, Wolfgang Puck and Mark Peel; maybe because of this, her tone is both authoritative and good-natured, as if writing in her own voice is easy by comparison. Do not overlook the grilled feta in grape leaves on p. 132. (Rodale Books, 2010.)

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8. The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa, by Marcus Samuelsson:

Before Marcus Samuelsson published his new memoir Yes, Chef, before he cooked for the Obamas (twice!), before he opened Red Rooster in Harlem, he wrote an excellent cookbook spotlighting the cuisine of his native Africa. Or rather, his unique -- New York City by way of Sweden and Ethiopia -- take on it. Is The Soul of a New Cuisine the most authentic African cookbook you'll find? No. Does it matter one bit? It does not.

Samuelsson's book is a fantastic tour of the chef's own spice route, with fine recipes for inventive dishes like duck skewers with green masala, shrimp piri piri (both of which dishes this author has made multiple times; they're great and they work perfectly), callaloo, crab burgers and harissa-roasted turkey breast. Samuelsson is wonderful with sauces (not surprising for a chef trained in the classic French tradition), and he plays with heat and spice in this book to wonderful results. (Wiley, 2006.)

click to enlarge AMAZON
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7. Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon, by Claudia Roden:

A follow-up of sorts to her A Book of Middle Eastern Food, Roden's examination of the cuisines from Morocco, Turkey and Lebanon only seems slim by comparison to that other book -- an almost encyclopedic masterpiece. Arabesque is lighter (literally and figuratively) and filled with reworkings of classic dishes plus modern takes on whatever Roden, an anthropologist as much as she is a cook, found appealing along her journey.

Bits of history and stories are laced with stunning photos by Jason Lowe and lovely recipes: artichoke and fava bean salad with preserved lemon; tagine of lamb with caramelized baby onions and pears; zucchini fritters; grilled sea bas flambéed with raki. Roden, Egyptian-born and London-based, is a story in and of herself. Read Jane Kramer's 2007 New Yorker profile while you're waiting for that tagine to cook. (Knopf, 2006.)

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6. Plenty, by Yotam Ottolenghi:

Plenty is one of those few books that actually deserves to be on the coffee table: It's prettier than an art book, more inspirational than most hymnals, and holds those coffee mugs well, being inexplicably made with a slightly squishy cover, like the books they make for your kid to read in the bathtub. Ottolenghi is an Israeli-born, London-based restaurateur and author, not just of books but of a highly regarded column in The Guardian. Although he writes mostly about vegetables and vegetarian-oriented food, Ottolenghi eats and cooks meat as well; maybe it's this catholicism that gives so many of his meatless dishes their depth, as if he made them that way from choice rather than necessity.

Deeply flavorful and endlessly creative, the dishes in this book are informed by various cultures as well as by the seasonal produce they champion. Hot yogurt and fava bean soup. Quinoa salad with dried Persian lime. Banh xeo. Coconut rice with sambal and okra. One could go on. And on. (Chronicle Books, 2011.)

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