Loading...
Fork Lift

A Last Supper at Spago Before Reinvention

Comments (0)

By

Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 1:16 PM
click to enlarge ANNE FISHBEIN
  • Anne Fishbein

Rather than write a review for this week's Fork Lift column, I instead visited Spago for a last meal before Wolfgang Puck's legendary Beverly Hills restaurant undergoes a facelift and menu transformation. The restaurant's spokesperson says that the food will be going in "a totally different direction," and that Puck's most famous, classic dishes will no longer be served. From the column:

Because Puck is part of the generation of chefs who invented things like spicy tuna tartare in sesame miso cones, Spago got a pass for still serving them, even if they seemed outdated. If the heart of this restaurant was based in nostalgia, then changing things up might be a mistake. But this is a kitchen capable of some genuinely astonishing cooking, and that fact is obscured somewhat by the weight of all those "classic dishes" and the decidedly outdated look of the place.

Read the entire column here.


Want more Squid Ink? Follow us on Twitter or like us on Facebook.

Related Location

Related Content

Now Trending

Slideshows

  • Ladies Gunboat Society at Flores
    At Ladies Gunboat Society, the new operation out of the restaurant that used to be Flores on Sawtelle Boulevard, the Hoppin’ John is served as an appetizer or a small plate rather than a side, and the price is the stuff of comedy.
  • Malibu Pier Restaurant and Bar
    Malibu Pier Restaurant and Bar, with chef Jason Fullilove at the helm, is in the two buildings at the pier’s entrance that used to be Beachcomber Cafe and Ruby’s Diner. Those buildings, which have been overhauled completely, reflect both the pier’s 109-year-old history and the cultural import of Malibu itself.
  • The Tasting Menu Trend
    In Los Angeles especially, but increasingly across the country, restaurants are either switching to tasting menus, putting a greater focus on a tasting-menu option (while offering à la carte items as well), or opening as tasting-menu operations from day one. The format that used to be the calling card of only the fanciest of restaurants is becoming ubiquitous, even at places where the waiter calls you “dude” and there isn’t a white tablecloth in sight.