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Food Writing

Gustavo Arellano Considers the Taco: From Mitla Café to Taco Bell to the Cuatro de Asada He's Eating Right Now

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Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 7:00 AM
click to enlarge Irene Montano at Mitla Café - ANNE FISHBEIN
  • Anne Fishbein
  • Irene Montano at Mitla Café

Sure, you may think you know a lot about tacos, but do you really? Because however knowledgable you may be, Gustavo Arellano knows more than you do. Arellano -- OC Weekly editor, author of ¡Ask a Mexican! and of the forthcoming book, Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America, etc. -- has written today's feature food story, which might help you out some. After which you will be hungry and need to read (and eat) more, which is of course just what you should do.

Like the Virgin Birth and the Great Deluge myths, Mitla's story is just one version of the same epic tale: Southern California's romance with the taco, that meal of convenience that has entranced us for nearly a century. It's come in many forms: as the taquitos at Cielito Lindo, as the jingle for Tito's Tacos, as Kogi's Korexican marriage, as the plate of 'em eaten at King Taco by politicos looking for a photo op -- vegetarian, carnitas, soft, hard, high-end, street.

Read the story.

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