And while we have nothing against our longstanding citified barbecue joints, or gastropubs that also happen to smoke some 'cue, and we certainly love any new barbecue-centric food truck (Mobile smoked meat!), those that follow are the places we'd be confident taking friends visiting from Texas, no rationalization required. The sort of tunnel-vision establishments that make no excuses for the occasional overdressed coleslaw and unmistakable Velveeta-tinted mac & cheese. These are not great places to have a beer, nor are they great places to linger for hours. In this old school-inspired smokers' club, it's all about the meat.5. J "n" J Burger & Bar-b-Que:
J "n" J's has been around long enough to still have that old-L.A. barbecue restaurant (here, more of a shack) game plan: Cater to the smoke-averse with menu additions like burgers and Philly cheesesteaks, and you'll have something for everyone who drops by. It's also the sort of place that offers virtually every type of barbecue: Sliced beef, pork ribs, chicken, hot links, chicken sausage, pulled pork. It's an odd, and often unsuccessful, please-everyone game plan for such a loyalty-driven food as barbecue. But here, it works. Perhaps in part that's because the owner, Jay Nelson Jr., is from just this side of Texas barbecue and due south of those Carolina pig pickins'. The meat hodgepodge tastes as Louisiana-appropriate as that plastic lawn furniture appears, and the menu prices read like they've stayed true to Nelson's swampland days (sliced beef is $6.25; a half rack of beef ribs, $12). Nelson once worked in the lumber business, which is perhaps why he uses an unusually democratic mix of oak, hickory and pecan wood. Take a tip from Mr. Gold and skip the brisket and sliced pork here; focus instead on the beef ribs and, sure, the chicken. The collard greens are a side dish must, as are the family's homemade pies. 5754 W. Adams Blvd., Los Angeles, 323-933-7366.4. Smoke City Market:
Dr. Hogly Wogly's may have 40 years of San Fernando Valley smoke puffing notoriety, but it's relative newcomer Smoke City Market that's getting us out to Sherman Oaks these days for Texas-style barbecue. Piles of brisket blackened to perfection, beef ribs that you swear you can't finish but always do. As Gold notes, it's wise to steer clear of the pork ribs -- Smoke City Market does Texas-style barbecue well, and we'll leave it at that. The sides here (creamed corn, German potato salad, red cabbage) are better than most for perhaps not-so-obvious reasons -- the restaurant is the brainchild of a couple of former high-end restaurant managers and chefs. But unlike most chef-helmed restaurants, their resumes are nowhere to be found on the website. A wise move, as authentic central Texas barbecue fans might take such a culinary pedigree as a sign the meat takes second fiddle to the sauce and sides, which is certainly not the case. Keep in mind that the beef barbecue goes fast, so call ahead or you might end up with those pork ribs. 5242 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks. 818-855-1280.
Turn the page for #3, etc...