Food Writing

5 Stages of Grief: The Jonathan Gold Model

Comments (0)


Wed, Feb 22, 2012 at 8:54 AM
click to enlarge Jitlada's tom yum soup - A. SCATTERGOOD
  • A. Scattergood
  • Jitlada's tom yum soup

5. Denial:

In which you refuse to read news blogs and Twitter feeds, and instead have lunch at Jitlada, preferring the comfort of ghost chiles to anything looming on the horizon. Windstorms. SigAlerts. More Republican debates. You feel fine. You like anesthesia. Maybe Jazz will give you some more Thai tea and pat your hand. Maybe Matt Groening will draw on your napkin.

click to enlarge Lucques patio - A. SCATTERGOOD
  • A. Scattergood
  • Lucques patio

4. Anger:

At this point, it's best not to get on the freeway. Retweet a few histrionic comments. Throw your copy of Counter Intelligence against the wall, then pick it up again and put it back in the car glove compartment where it belongs. Blame Sam Zell for everything that's ever gone wrong in your life, including Manny Ramirez. (Some of us do this all the time.) Then go have lunch at Lucques; sit on the patio and think pastoral thoughts and eat some glorious food and get a grip; go see what the bartender is doing with those kumquats.

click to enlarge canelés de Bordeaux at Maison Giraud - A. SCATTERGOOD
  • A. Scattergood
  • canelés de Bordeaux at Maison Giraud

3. Bargaining:

Well, you might shoot off a few diplomatic emails, if you know the right people, but really this, too, is just a coping mechanism. Pragmatism is very useful; take the long view. Maybe consider un-canceling your Los Angeles Times print subscription, just for the hell of it. (If you do not have an Irony Meter, go get one.) Or go read The Wall Street Journal instead, since some very good people seem to write for it, too, at least sometimes. Dinner? Probably The Bazaar or wherever Michael Voltaggio is cooking. Chego would be a very good idea. Providence. Mélisse. Rivera. Or, if your Irony Meter is portable, go see if you can grab a walk-in spot at LudoBites (tonight is the last night of LudoBites 8) or head to Maison Giraud. The drive over to the Palisades might be soothing, and the canelés de Bordeaux will make you feel better.

click to enlarge hot pot at New Chong Qing - A. SCATTERGOOD
  • A. Scattergood
  • hot pot at New Chong Qing

2. Depression:

During this stage (The fourth? The second? Numerology won't help you now.) you need to eat, even if your appetite has shrunk as much as some newsrooms have. Don't blow your budget on the fancy shit, since it will only remind you of the heyday of this or that, but instead head to the San Gabriel Valley for a little Sichuan therapy. You know where to go. A lonely strip mall parking lot. A table under blaring fluorescent lights. A framed review on the wall, circa 2002 or maybe even last December. Order the water-boiled fish and let the heat of the chiles and peppercorns take over.

Related Location

Related Content

Now Trending


  • The Tasting Menu Trend
    In Los Angeles especially, but increasingly across the country, restaurants are either switching to tasting menus, putting a greater focus on a tasting-menu option (while offering à la carte items as well), or opening as tasting-menu operations from day one. The format that used to be the calling card of only the fanciest of restaurants is becoming ubiquitous, even at places where the waiter calls you “dude” and there isn’t a white tablecloth in sight.
  • Milo's Kitchen: A Treat Truck for Dogs
    Milo's Kitchen, a part of California-based Big Heart Pet Brands, is taking its homestyle dog treats on the road this summer with the "Treat Truck." The dogified food truck is making stops all over the country, ending up in New York early September. The truck stopped at Redondo Beach Dog Park Friday morning entertaining the pups with treats, a photo-booth and play zone. Milo's Kitchen Treat Truck offered samples of the line's six flavors, all with chicken or beef as the first ingredient, and all made in the U.S.A. with no artificial colors or preservatives. All photos by Nanette Gonzales.
  • Smoke.oil.salt's Spanish Cuisine
    Smoke.oil.salt chef (and Valencia native) Perfecto Rocher is valiantly trying to bring the experience of Spain, specifically Catalonia, to the brick space (under a tattoo parlor) on Melrose that used to be Evan Kleiman’s Angeli Caffe.