As at other third-wave pizza places in town -- Pizzeria Mozza, Il Fico, Terroni and Sotto, among others -- it is not strictly necessary to order pizza at all. There are slices of pumpkin roasted with honey and sage; clams steamed with garlic and tart white wine; crisply roasted duck legs with sauteed apples and blackened brussels sprouts; and oozy burrata with persimmons and prosciutto. You probably should get a "garlic knot," which here is a hollow sphere of pizza dough, tied at the top with string and stuffed with a handful of baked garlic cloves -- it's the new-new thing, the first worthy food-fetish object of the new year. I want one right now!
But the pizza? Nicely crisp, medium thin, and brawnier than you might expect, probably because the dough is made with whole-wheat flour. Get the one with garlicky braised greens, fresh mozzarella and homemade belly sausage, a pork bomb with a fizzing fuse.