Ah, the breakfast sandwich. A marriage of two disparate meals in a single dish: the sunny disposition of eggs cradled between two slices of bread. As much as it may be galling to admit, every breakfast sandwich from the hoitiest toitiest brioche and hand-ground sausage combo to the greasiest catering truck version owes a lasting debt to the ubiquitous McMuffin. Despite its filthy sounding name and white, barely distinguishable truck, the Eggslut truck (@eggslutla
) makes a mean version of McDonald's breakfast classic.
Eggslut, which often parks on Fairfax Ave. in front of Commissary
and Lindy & Grundy
on weekday mornings, makes two iterations of their basic breakfast sandwich, one with bacon ($5) and the other with sausage ($6). In both cases, it's served on a small but sturdy brioche bun with an egg cooked over-easy. In both cases, the meat is generously portioned, whether it's an herbacious sausage patty or slices of thick-cut bacon.
The mustard-daubed sausage sandwich hits the spot, but it's the bacon sandwich that drives us wild with desire. It's probably thanks in part to the chipotle ketchup, which adds just the right sweet-tart kick to pull together the soft bread and smoky meat, dripping with rich, custardy egg yolk. Eggslut generally only serves this sandwich in the a.m., but it's good enough for a meal any time of day.
Elina Shatkin is a staff writer at LA Weekly. Follow her at @elinashatkin or contact her at firstname.lastname@example.org.