Bäcos are the flatbread sandwiches, vaguely resembling pita wraps, that Centeno has flirted with at most of the restaurants he has cooked at since he was at Opus in the mid-aughts, but never served officially because he was afraid its popularity would overwhelm the rest of the menu. (Bäcos are awfully good.) Mercat is the Catalan word for
"market,'' and there are, in fact, a fair number of Catalan flavors here: the pepper-almond sauce salbitxada on a baco with crunchy bits of pork belly, fried beef, and aioli; and the thin flatbreads called coca, like Catalan pizzas, topped with lamb sausage and harissa or
green sauce and egg.
If you make it to dessert -- there is very little on this menu you won't feel like eating -- you might as well try the banana-cream cannoli, which are less Sicilian than they are the creamy puff-pastry things you find in every fancy Italian pastry shop north of Rome.