30 Scoops in 30 Days: Grom Gelateria (Day 5) | Squid Ink | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly
Loading...
Lists

30 Scoops in 30 Days: Grom Gelateria (Day 5)

Comments (0)

By

Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 4:10 PM

Grom Gelateria: Chocolate Gelato + Apricot Sorbet

The line between ice cream and gelato can sometimes be thin. At Grom Gelateria, a much loved Italian, New York and (since January) Los Angeles chain, there's no question. This is gelato, at its finest: soft, velvet smooth and reeking of casual indulgence.

Grom Gelateria: Interior

Located in the chic Malibu Country Mart, which provides all your basic provisions (Oliver Peoples sunglasses, popsicle-bright Juicy Couture bikinis), Grom prides itself on using superlative ingredients. You can get a dossier on any of them. Grom doesn't use any old pistachios; they use Syrian pistachios. The nougat comes from Piedmont, the chocolate from Colombia, the almond chips from Sicily. Even the charming clerk behind the counter is imported from Italy (his friendliness a rebuke to nearly every customer service experience we've had in that country).

This outpost of exacting standards is bare, thought not barren, with pale yellow walls and, most strangely, no tables. Perhaps to avoid drooling lingerers? Anyhow, that shouldn't stop you.

Grom Gelateria: Sign

"Exquisite" is probably among the top offenders on any Words that Food Writers Should Stop Using list, but there's no other way to describe Grom's melon gelato, replete with the essence of cantaloupe. The apricot sorbet is as bright as a poppy and twice as flavorful. Every fruit flavor tastes like it was just plucked from the earth and rushed straight to the mixer

Among the 20 or so flavors, which change seasonally, are gelato standards like baccio, stracciatella and tiramisu as well as less common flavors (at least in the United States) like liquirizia (licorice) and torroncino (nougat). The basics aren't so bad, either. Grom can take pride in making the darkest dark chocolate gelato in town. The cioccolato extranoir is an unstoppable exultation of cacao, so dark that if it was a movie, it would make Lars von Trier's ouevre look like slapstick comedy.

Grom Gelateria: Espresso Granita

Grom also concocts a special flavor of the month. This month's, ricotta manderle, a tart, milky blend broken up with almond chunks, earns top marks for its tartness, its originality and its ability to pair with just about any other flavor in the shop.


Previously on 30 Scoops in 30 Days...

Related Location

Related Content

Now Trending

  • Hello Kitty's Hungry Hunt Takes Over L.A.

    Hello Kitty fans are a voracious bunch, and her creators, the Sanrio company, are out to satiate fans in more ways than one for her 40th Anniversary. Kitty-themed cuisine is here — in conjunction with the highly anticipated Hello Kitty Convention, coming to MOCA at the Geffen Contemporary on Oct...
  • Chef Gary Menes on Cooking "From Seed to Plate"

    A farm grows in Long Beach.  This would be an approximately 5,000 square foot one called the Gladys Avenue Urban Farm founded in 2010 by Captain Charles Moore. Earlier this year, Captain Moore leased the farm to none other than Gary Menes, the chef and owner of Le Comptoir who very much...
  • California Thursdays Brings Fresh Local Produce to Schoolkids

    Nearly 1 million students in California, including in Los Angeles, will be test subjects for an experimental school food approach – feeding them freshly prepared, locally grown foods. It’s part of a statewide pilot program called California Thursdays that seeks to do something audacious – serve California food to California...