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Food in the Media

Moving Day at Bon Appétit's Test Kitchen: Lock, Stock Pot & PacoJet (Or Not)

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Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 8:33 AM

click to enlarge the new test kitchen - BON APPÉTIT
  • Bon Appétit
  • the new test kitchen

As you perhaps know, Bon Appétit, the food magazine which has been based in Los Angeles for decades, is in the process of relocating to New York. Lock, stock pot and Cuisinart. Yesterday the new and/or remaining folks at Bon Appétit blogged about the move in a somewhat elegiac post, "From the Test Kitchen: Moving Day." Or at least elegiac for those of us here in L.A.

Along with a new editor-in-chief, Adam Rapoport, there is a new test kitchen director, Hunter Lewis, who has been getting the new kitchen up to speed. So where are they putting all those pie pans and Microplanes and muffin tins ? Where you'd probably expect. Namely into the former Gourmet kitchen space.

According to the blog, one is apt to find muffin tins rather than PacoJets in the kitchen. "Everything we do should emulate a home kitchen. We don't want to be wasteful, this isn't a restaurant, and we don't need fancy equipment," says Lewis. The packing and unpacking became a kind of archaeology, also as you might expect, with odd bits discovered.

"Opening each box was like unpacking a different generation of food culture. We could sense a heavy French influence in the older equipment; the newer stuff showed how Gourmet began to embrace more diverse cuisines from Asia and South America." Some of the stuff that they didn't want anymore went to charity, so if you're reading this in New York, now you know why your area Goodwill suddenly has a thousand rubber spatulas.

And if anybody knows what's happening to the old Bon Appétit test kitchen, let us know. When we asked former editor-in-chief Barbara Fairchild recently, she had no idea either.

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