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Cookbooks

Ask Mr. Gold: Cooking With the Critic, Or The Top 10 Most Battered Cookbooks in Jonathan Gold's Kitchen

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Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 1:01 PM
click to enlarge Mr. Gold, with dim sum menu - ANNE FISHBEIN
  • Anne Fishbein
  • Mr. Gold, with dim sum menu

Dear Mr. Gold:

Do you always eat out? Do you ever eat at home? Do you have any cookbooks that you use a great deal? Just curious.

−Maggs, Mar Vista

Dear Maggs:

Actually, I cook kind of a lot. A weird amount. I'm the guy who cooks red beans and rice or quail and grapes for 10, and then realizes that he has forgotten to invite anybody to dinner. (My children sometimes have unusual lunchboxes.) Anyway, in case you were wondering, these are the 10 most battered cookbooks in my kitchen:

1. The Breakfast Book by Marion Cunningham. Not only is this the essential manual of the American morning, from sour cream coffee cakes to shirred eggs, but by its very nature, it tends to collide with spattering bacon and inerrantly flipped pancakes. This is one book that should be sold with a commemorative chisel.

2. Essentials of Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan. This is at least my third go-round with this book, after discounted QPB editions began to resemble the aftermath of a ticker-tape parade. I've cooked out of it so many times that I could probably recite the salmorigio recipe by heart, but by now the dogeared, waterlogged volume has become as much good-luck charm as guide.

3. Simple French Cooking by Richard Olney. Oddly enough, the native Iowan, transplanted to a stunningly rustic kitchen in Provence, may have known more about the American kitchen than anyone who has ever lived: The master braise recipe alone is enough reason to get the book. When I had dinner with Olney a few years before his death -- Islamic Chinese food; he didn't like it -- for some reason I gave him the spattered working copy rather than the pristine first edition to sign. You could probably grow mushrooms on it by now, but it has sentimental value.

4. The Cooking of Southwest France by Paula Wolfert. Still the only book I have cooked completely through. Coq au vin, cassoulet and confit are not kind to paper. You could probably think of my kitchen copy as a scratch-and-sniff edition.

5. Authentic Mexican by Rick and Deena Bayless. Before he was a restaurant owner, a celebrity and a food TV diva, Bayless and his wife, Deena, were cookbook writers, and really good ones. It could be argued that this first book is as solid an introduction to Mexican cooking as exists. Its status as a magnet for guacamole, enchilada sauce and carnitas drippings is irrefutable.

6. Chez Panisse Cooking by Paul Bertolli and Alice Waters. I'm pretty sure I have every Alice Waters book there is. The volumes stretch across half a shelf. Yet somehow, this is the only one that ever gets used. Bertolli's technical fixations do a great job of grounding Waters' culinary fantasies, and her ingredient fetishes somehow mesh better with Italian cooking than they do with the French-influenced menus in the other books. My copy has been assaulted by pomegranate seeds, green garlic puree and roasted yellow peppers. Colorful.

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