Best Simulacrum of a Simulacrum (1938): Lawry's the Prime Rib | Squid Ink | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly
Loading...
Best of L.A.

Best Simulacrum of a Simulacrum (1938): Lawry's the Prime Rib

Comments (0)

By

Wed, Oct 20, 2010 at 9:00 AM

click to enlarge meat cart at Lawry's - FLICKR/INUYAKI

Like any good back lot, greater Los Angeles may be most like itself where it resembles anywhere else, from the Pasadena backstreets that have spent a century standing in for suburban Connecticut, to the jungly corners of Griffith Park, to the Spanish villas grander and more formally designed than anything in Seville.

So when Lawrence Frank opened Lawry's the Prime Rib in 1938, in an era when his competitors were setting up business in giant teapots and simulated tropical paradises, it makes sense that he would be inspired by Simpson's-in-the-Strand, a grand London restaurant that he had never seen. If West End swells ate creamed spinach, barons of beef and Yorkshire pudding served from enormous silver carts, he would serve it that way, too. Thus was an empire born.

And when the restaurant relocated across the street a few years ago, to a location that it had previously abandoned to move across the street in 1947, it was to a dining room that looked more like the original Lawry's than Lawry's itself. Is what Lawry's serves truly prime rib? It depends on who you think starred in North by Northwest: Archibald Leach or Cary Grant.

Lawry's the Prime Rib: 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310)

652-2827.

Look for more "Best of L.A." pieces in our annual Best of L.A. issue, out Oct. 7th.

Related Content

Now Trending

  • Hello Kitty's Hungry Hunt Takes Over L.A.

    Hello Kitty fans are a voracious bunch, and her creators, the Sanrio company, are out to satiate fans in more ways than one for her 40th Anniversary. Kitty-themed cuisine is here — in conjunction with the highly anticipated Hello Kitty Convention, coming to MOCA at the Geffen Contemporary on Oct...
  • Chef Gary Menes on Cooking "From Seed to Plate"

    A farm grows in Long Beach.  This would be an approximately 5,000 square foot one called the Gladys Avenue Urban Farm founded in 2010 by Captain Charles Moore. Earlier this year, Captain Moore leased the farm to none other than Gary Menes, the chef and owner of Le Comptoir who very much...
  • California Thursdays Brings Fresh Local Produce to Schoolkids

    Nearly 1 million students in California, including in Los Angeles, will be test subjects for an experimental school food approach – feeding them freshly prepared, locally grown foods. It’s part of a statewide pilot program called California Thursdays that seeks to do something audacious – serve California food to California...