The Visitation of Saint Estèphe
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Anne Fishbein
Squelette neon serve at Rivera.
Need a visual aid for your print edition? Jonathan Gold tries John Sedlar's Saint Esto¨phe menu at Rivera. ("For the month of September, Sedlar has embedded the 1986 Saint Esto¨phe menu within the menu of his Rivera, and it is a fascinating look at the food at an important moment in Los Angeles culinary history, like a set by CSNY tucked into the context of a Neil Young concert. That chile relleno, that interplay between the goat cheese and the suave chile flesh, the impossible butterfat bomb of the cream sauce and the duxelles, is as precise an evocation of the past as anything I've ever encountered. I want to listen to Wham records again.") Click through for Anne Fishbein's spectacular photos and read more in Gold's Counter Intelligence, "Back to the Garden."
