Wrapped pork belly marinated in garlic at Palsaik Samgyeopsal.
Need a visual aid for your print edition? Jonathan Gold visits Palsaik Samgyeopsal. ("The dish has had a place in local dining for decades now, at places like L.A. Toad, Park's and the late Sa Rit Gol, but this is perhaps the pork belly moment in Korean cuisine, the point at which the meat threatens to take over the place in the culture currently occupied by noodle soup and barbecue.") Click through for Anne Fishbein's spectacular photos and read more in Gold's Counter Intelligence, "The Other White Meat."