PACKING A ROD: The ancient Chinese art of bamboo-stick noodles

Bamboodles is entertainment of a different caliber: a glassed-in booth, a cloud of flour and a slight Chinese man, muscled under his loose-fitting shirt, bouncing on a thick, hollow length of bamboo that juts from his crotch like a monstrous phallus, working a pillow of dough wedged beneath the cylinder somewhere near its opposite end. Read more in Jonathan Gold's "Bamboodles: Packing a Rod."

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