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Pla pao with Japanese sea bass at Night and Market.
Need a visual aid for your print edition? Jonathan Gold visits Night and Market on Sunset Boulevard. ("The fried pig tails are as hard to leave alone as popcorn -- an 8-year-old of my acquaintance paused only briefly when he was informed that they weren't spareribs.") Click through for Anne Fishbein's spectacular photos and read more in Gold's Counter Intelligence, "Street Eats on Sunset."