If you wanted to present a case study for the drastic revolution in the rules of the restaurant business, you might use the recent career of chef Jordan Kahn as Exhibit A. Specifically, you might compare and contrast his last venture — the flashy, ambitious Red Medicine — with his new restaurant, Destroyer. Much of Kahn's food is built on the premise of layers, in his flavors and also the literal way he builds dishes. Chicken confit comes in a wide bowl under a blanket of charred cabbage leaves and a flurry of cheese. The bottom layer is a mix of yogurt and hazelnuts, and the meaty, oily in-the-best-way-possible chicken combines with the cabbage funk and luxury of dairy and nuttiness of the hazelnuts for a dish that's just straight-up delicious, as well as being thrilling on a creative level.