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Marinated raw crab (gaejang gahane) at Soban.
Need a visual aid for your print edition? Jonathan Gold visits Soban in Koreatown. ("At Soban, the waitress almost staggers under the weight of the banchan, 15 or so small, square dishes in all, which she arranges on the table with the triumphant smile of a Scrabble player laying down a 112-point play that includes an X, a Q and a triple word score.") Click through for Anne Fishbein's spectacular photos and read more in Gold's Counter Intelligence, "Show me some leg."