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In which Jonathan Gold visits Soban in Koreatown -- yes, we are back in Koreatown -- and considers the galbi jjim, the un dae gu jorim, the banchan, and the ganjang gaejang, or marinated raw crab, which may or may not be the single best dish in Los Angeles.
At Soban, the waitress almost staggers under the weight of the banchan, 15 or so small, square dishes in all, which she arranges on the table with the triumphant smile of a Scrabble player laying down a 112-point play that includes an X, a Q and a triple word score.