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This week, Jonathan Gold visits Palsaik Samgyeopsal in Koreatown and considers samgyeop-sal, pork belly, and happy pigs. Which are pretty much all the same thing.
The dish has had a place in local dining for decades now, at places like L.A. Toad, Park's and the late Sa Rit Gol, but this is perhaps the pork belly moment in Korean cuisine, the point at which the meat threatens to take over the place in the culture currently occupied by noodle soup and barbecue.