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Your Counter Intelligence Preview: In Which Mr. Gold Visits Antojitos Carmen

chicken cooking in the mole at Antojitos Carmen

Anne Fishbeinchicken cooking in the mole at Antojitos Carmen

This week, Jonathan Gold visits Antojitos Carmen in Boyle Heights. More adventures in street food, the joys of brick-and-mortar locations, and chicken in mole.

There are restored pictures on the wall, mostly from Castellanos' village in Michoacán; rather elegant lamb barbacoa on weekends; and a small specialty in caldo de res, a beef-vegetable soup. Weekend mixiotes? A taste of Guerrero, beef and pork steamed in maguey leaves. Menudo? What the hell.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, "Masa Finds Casa," and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then, probably, get in your car.