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In which Jonathan Gold heads to the mall, specifically the food court in the Westfield Culver City -- previously the Fox Hills mall -- and braves the traditional landscape of "Cinnabons and Chili's Toos and Wolfgang Puck Cafes." Is there hazard pay for restaurant critics?
It feels almost illegal, eating something as good as this Shandong-style roll (a Chinese pancake rolled around slivers of stewed beef and smeared with a sweet, house-made bean paste) within sight of a Panda Express, although it must be admitted: The (better but distant) Alhambra original is tucked into an old bowling alley.