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This week Jonathan Gold visits Angeli Caffe for the last time, as Evan Kleiman's Melrose Avenue restaurant closed this past Friday night after 27 years.
The chilly Wednesday evening before Angeli Caffe closed for good, you could grab a bar seat at Pizzeria Mozza without waiting, and there were only two or three dudes in line at Pink's hot dog stand. If you were ambling down Melrose on your way to a bite or a drink, you could have had your choice of any table at any restaurant on the usually crowded strip.