Your Counter Intelligence Preview: In Which Mr. Gold Considers Picca
This week, Jonathan Gold considers Picca, Ricardo Zarate's bright red new restaurant on Pico Boulevard (the alliteration is purposeful), the state of Peruvian cuisine and -- albeit briefly -- the culinary dream team recently assembled in Lima.
Any good chef in town is likely to drop a kernel of giant corn, a sweet-potato puree or a ceviche on you these days, but most prominently, Zarate's Westside anticucho bar, Picca, is one of the toughest reservations in town on weekends -- so popular that it occasionally runs out of beef heart, which doesn't tend to happen in real life.
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