Your Counter Intelligence Preview: In Which Mr. Gold Considers Le Comptoir
Anne FishbeinSunnyside-up egg with young greens, herbs and flowers at Le Comptoir
In which Jonathan Gold visits Gary Menes' temporary food installation, Le Comptoir, or "the counter," a restaurant within a restaurant at the actual counter of downtown's Tiara Cafe. It's a brief incarnation of a restaurant that will continue, Menes said a few days ago, until February. Lucky us.
You are handed handwritten menus -- a formality, because you will be served what the kitchen has prepared -- and within a few seconds a glass of white Bordeaux is put down in front of you, then a plate of compressed melon, almost the texture of tuna sashimi, served like a ceviche with lime juice, a little olive oil and a spray of cilantro. The bread is sliced from big, blackened rustic loaves, a bit wet on the inside, which Menes has made using a starter he has nurtured for years. So far, so good.
Get the Squid Ink'd Newsletter
Sign up for our weekly food newsletter, which features top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips and a link to our print review.
More RESTAURANTS News
- Trattoria Napolis to Close, French Laundry Wine Recovered: This Week in Food
- Celebrate Australia Day in L.A. With Pies, Lamingtons, Fairy Bread and a Flat White
- L.A. Most Authentic Singaporean Dishes and Drinks Are at QQ Kopitiam in Pasadena
- On Its Fifth Anniversary, Here's What's Defining the L.A. Beer Scene