Your Counter Intelligence Preview: In Which Mr. Gold Considers John Sedlar's Saint Estèphe Menu at Rivera
It is not often that we get to repeat the past, which is probably a good thing for most of us. But in John Sedlar's case, it can be a thing of beauty. If you did not have the pleasure of eating Sedlar's food in the late 80s, now you have your chance: Jonathan Gold considers Sedlar's Saint Estèphe menu, available all this month at Rivera.
For the month of September, Sedlar has embedded the 1986 Saint Estèphe menu within the menu of his Rivera, and it is a fascinating look at the food at an important moment in Los Angeles culinary history, like a set by CSNY tucked into the context of a Neil Young concert. That chile relleno, that interplay between the goat cheese and the suave chile flesh, the impossible butterfat bomb of the cream sauce and the duxelles, is as precise an evocation of the past as anything I've ever encountered. I want to listen to Wham records again.
Get the Food & Drink Newsletter
Our weekly guide to Los Angeles dining includes food news and reviews, as well as dining events and interviews with chefs and restaurant owners.
More Food & Drink News
- From At-Risk to On-Set: Homegirl Café's Staffs Program Graduates at its New Movie...
- Part Can, Part Growler, the Crowler Has Landed in L.A.
- L.A.’s Most Idolized Chef-Without-a-Restaurant Reveals His Long-Awaited Second Act
- Championship Burgers Revealed! L.A. Weekly's Ultimate Burger Bracket's Final...