This week, Jonathan Gold visits Josef Centeno's Bäco Mercat, the chef's recently opened bäco palace in downtown L.A.
The ideal customer would be someone who knows what salbitxada is, but also doesn't get upset if she accidentally splashes a little on her shirt. If Bäco Mercat were any more of the moment, it would be a Pinterest page devoted to Tumblrs of itself, so that restaurant and metarestaurant could devour one another like Jung's famous snake swallowing its own tail.
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