Where to Find Breakfast Tacos in L.A.?

the invisible restaurant critic
the invisible restaurant critic
Anne Fishbein

Dear Mr. Gold:

As a former resident of South Texas, I often miss the unique Texas-style breakfast tacos so ubiquitous there. (I like mine with machacado.) I'm sure you know that these are not the same as breakfast burritos, and are defined well in this article about how New York has "discovered" them. Where can I find them in L.A.?

--Molly Arevalo, via Facebook

Dear Ms. Arevalo:

Breakfast tacos -- I know what you mean about breakfast tacos. I don't even eat eggs particularly, but I have watched the Robert Rodriguez breakfast-taco tutorial from the Sin City DVD maybe a hundred times. It is the manliest cooking video ever made, a video with enough pure T to reduce Guy Fieri into a whimpering puddle of gel. The part I especially like: "Get those flour tortillas, the ones you usually find in the store? Get them out of the fridge, and throw them in the trash.'' Perfect.

Unfortunately, the essential ingredient of breakfast tacos, which is to say those thick, handmade flour tortillas, are pretty rare in around here. This is a corn tortilla town. And as far as I know -- and I'd love to be corrected -- Nick's Taste of Texas out in Covina is the only real Tejano place in town, unless you count Henry's Puffy Taco in Whittier, which is kind of a different thing. Taste of Texas does have the right tortillas, and a decent selection of guisados, although not necessarily your beloved machacado. It doesn't specifically have breakfast tacos on the menu, but it does have vast platters of chorizo and eggs, papas and eggs, etc. at weekend breakfast, and I suspect you'd be able to configure everything to your liking. I'm just happy they have migas!

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Nick's Taste of Texas

545 N. Citrus Ave.
Covina, CA 91723



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