Waterloo & City: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011
It may be a stretch to consider Waterloo & City, a pool-shooting, darts-playing, ale-swilling, Ramones-blasting bar shoehorned into a rundown coffee shop, to be much more than a glorified bar. The place is ostensibly a gastropub, whatever that has come to mean, and there is indeed a Sunday roast; a Scotch egg; sticky toffee pudding; and a maître d' who is prepared to discuss the nuances of your glass of stout until the roosters begin to crow. Nobody but an Englishman could have come up with something like an Indian butter chicken pizza. But Brendan Collins, the Englishman in question, is a chef deeply in love with meat, especially the charcuterie he makes himself — loaves of sweetbreads bound in gelatin with pig's trotters; rabbit with pistachios; the occasional terrine of eel and foie gras — it's a virtuosic display, even if you don't go on to the burgers made with 30-day-aged meat or the crisp pig shank confit, sizzled in its own fat.
You may think of zucchini-blossom fritters as the delicate appetizers you've tasted at Pizzeria Mozza, but Collins stuffs the blossoms with a fistful of baby shrimp before he fries them: They come to the table looking like a plateful of maracas, and you could no more polish off an order by yourself than you could eat six burritos. The whole roast chicken for two, a Sunday specialty, comes with a bundle of smoldering herbs poking out of its butt, and a pile of french fries as big as a haystack. 12517 Washington Blvd., Culver City. (310) 391-4222, waterlooandcity.com. Dinner, Mon.-Sat., 6-10 p.m., Sun., 5-9 p.m.; late-night menu, Fri.-Sat., 10 p.m.-mid.; happy hour 5-7 p.m. daily. Full bar. Lot parking. AE, MC, V. Gastropub.
99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:
Church & State
Din Tai Fung
El Huarache Azteca
Euro Pane Bakery
Fab Hot Dogs
Good Girl Dinette
La Casita Mexicana
Lazy Ox Canteen
Meals by Genet
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
Night + Market
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Pollos a la Brasa
Sapp Coffee Shop
Son of a Gun
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Waterloo & City
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