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Upscaled, But Not Elevated: 9021Pho Beverly Hills

In its large bowls of Vietnamese noodles, 9021Pho, which opened yesterday on in the former Cristoni location on North Beverly Drive, is a perfect reflection of the city in which it resides. Beverly Hills: aesthetic, health-conscious, white.

The restaurant is from Kimmy Tang (whose Michelia closed last year) and specializes in market-fresh Vietnamese fare--pho (rhymes with "duh," despite the pun), bento boxes, and spring rolls--plated beautifully in white bowls or square dishes. Folks ordered "foe bow" to-go, or dined-in at one of a few marble tables with black rattan chairs. Beneath Asian-ish wall sconces, diners dubiously dipped raw beef into warm bowls, and continuously reached for lime, basil, and Sriracha to flavor the (clearly) MSG-free broth to taste.

9021Pho: 490 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills; (310) 275-7077.

Formerly Cristoni.

E. CourtlandFormerly Cristoni.

Playful ambiance, like a Vientamese diner.

E. CourtlandPlayful ambiance, like a Vientamese diner.

Upscaled, But Not Elevated: 9021Pho Beverly Hills

E. Courtland