Mark your calendars and, I don't know, camp out in front of those grungy sidewalk newspaper boxes: this Thursday marks the publication of the Weekly's annual compendium of Los Angeles' Essential 99 Restaurants. Otherwise known as Jonathan Gold's dining cheat sheet, or, more accurately, ours. It's a pull-out. Which means you'll be able to stow it in your car alongside your Zagat, your (now-defunct) Michelin, and, doubtless, your collector's edition Counter Intelligence, published in 2000. And all those forks and chopsticks and whatever it is you stow in your car. Jumper cables. Chinese language telephone directories. Bottles of Sriracha.