The Year on a Plate

1.At the new Globe Venice, whole chickens are roasted to order. The recipes vary on a daily basis, but I liked the one with a verjus sauce and aligot potatoes (mashies with tons of fontina cheese). 72 Market St., Venice; (310) 392-8720.

2. The classy new takeout café Clementine offers several candidates for best dish, including a cookie with a layer of peanut butter somehow piped inside it, and a bland but dangerously addictive apricot bun. And then there’s the liverwurst sandwich — a fluffy wurst on good white bread with lightly pickled onions. (It’s not, they admit, their biggest seller.) 1751 Ensley Ave.; (310) 552-1080.

3. The long-roasted, deeply caramelized, falling-apart pot roast at Jar. 8225 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 655-6566.

4. Gino Angelini’s new Angelini Osteria features home-style Italian cooking, but no home cook I’ve met could produce such an elegant and profoundly simple entrée as his roasted snow-white cuttlefish with sautéed chard and rustic bruschetta. 7313 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 297-0070.

5. Spurned as a ladies’ luncheon item, quiche can be quite the sensuous indulgence. I learned this anew at Beaujolais Boulangerie, where buttery pastry is filled with quivering, creamy, eggy custards — spinach, or the classic ham-and-Gruyère quiche Lorraine. 1661 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock; (323) 255-5133.

6. Zax’s talented 23-year-old chef, Brooke Williamson, sautéed pretty pink, sweet tiger shrimp, then draped them over pillowy little ravioli stuffed with puréed carrot. 11604 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 571-3800.

7. Chef Josie Le Balch, at her eponymous Josie, tossed wide, chewy ribbons of pappardelle pasta with a light, fresh tomato sauce, slices of rabbit breast stuffed with tomato and wilted greens, shreds of darker haunch meat, strips of intense oven-dried tomato, and big porous shards of morel mushroom. 2424 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 581-9888.

8. Most of the tapas at Cobras & Matadors are small wallops of flavor. My favorite, were I forced to choose, would probably be the baked black mussels with spicy Spanish chorizo — though I’d hate to miss the humble fried potatoes, which are crusty on the outside, fluffy and moist within, and served with both a heady aioli and the spicy red chile mojo picon. 7615 Beverly Blvd.; (323) 932-6178.

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Related Locations


1751 Ensley Ave.
Westwood, CA 90024


Angelini Osteria

7313 Beverly Blvd.
Fairfax, CA 90036


Le Petit Beaujolais

1661 Colorado Blvd.
Eagle Rock, CA 90041


Next Door by Josie

2424 Pico Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90405


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