The Undercover Vegetarian: The Parish

Beets with molasses yogurt and ancient grain granola at The Parish.
Beets with molasses yogurt and ancient grain granola at The Parish.
Anne Fishbein

You might assume that The Parish, subject of this week's restaurant review, is a temple to meaty fatty things, being a gastropub and all. And you wouldn't be far off -- there are plenty of chicken livers and fried fish items and things made out of pig parts on this menu.

But there's also an obvious love and respect for vegetables, and even some of the best bar snacks here are vegetarian-friendly.

There are deviled eggs, if you're that kind of vegetarian, and they're creamy and tart and delicious. A small bowl of fried olives and chickpeas makes for a crunchy, addictive accompaniment to The Parish's fantastic cocktails.

There are a number of smaller, creative salads and farmers market-driven plates, like beets with a rotating list of interesting grains and greens. There's a list of side dishes that combined could easily make a meal -- dishes like green beans with romesco and marcona almonds. And there's always at least one larger plate that's meat free -- recently it was fat ricotta dumplings with stewed escarole and chanterelles.

So, despite the kitchen's obvious love of meat, The Parish can actually end up being a fairly decadent place for a vegetarian to eat.

You can read the full review of The Parish here.

See also:

The Undercover Vegetarian archives.

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