The Undercover Vegetarian: Spago

Braised Artichokes, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Baby Carrots "Barigoule Style" at Spago.
Braised Artichokes, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Baby Carrots "Barigoule Style" at Spago.
Anne Fishbein

If Spago has one defining characteristic, it's accommodation. If you're willing to pay, the restaurant (which is the subject of last week's restaurant review) will accommodate just about any whim, and their wide ranging and international menu is proof of that. Does this extend to the non meat eaters among us? It does.

There are salad options, and they aren't boring throw-aways, particularly a recent vegetable salad with pine nuts, Roquefort, Asian pear and dates. One of the best pastas, the agnolotti, is filled with pureed pumpkin and topped with sage and brown butter.

It would be easy to make a full meal from the "from the garden" section of the menu, presenting creative takes on seasonal produce. One of the highlights of a recent meal at Spago was a "barigoule" of braised artichokes and chanterelles, set off in a sweet slick of bright orange root veggie puree.

Mention to your server that you're looking for vegetarian options, and the chef may just come up with something special for you as well. Spago is that type of restaurant.

See also: The Undercover Vegetarian archives.


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