MORE

The Undercover Vegetarian: Allumette

Carrot salad, sunchokes, radishes, pickled turnips, black carrot syrup; chef Miles Thompson at Allumette.

Anne FishbeinCarrot salad, sunchokes, radishes, pickled turnips, black carrot syrup; chef Miles Thompson at Allumette.

During my last visit to Allumette, the Echo Park restaurant featured in this week's restaurant review, there were exactly two meat-free items on the menu. Chef Miles Thompson serves a short, ever-changing menu, and there are times when I've seen perhaps one other salad on offer as well, but the brief version is: This is not a great restaurant for vegetarians.

Both those items -- a vinegar-roasted turnip dish with brown rice, and a carrot salad -- were interesting and cerebral, and if I were vegetarian I'd appreciate them as a welcome change from the regular wood-grilled vegetables and pasta plates offered around town. But in combination they wouldn't fill me up or constitute a full, satisfying meal.

I'd bet, that with all that talent, Thompson could come up with a full tasting menu of meat-free dishes, and my guess is that one day, in this restaurant or another, he'll offer that option. But for right now, Allumette is a spot that a vegetarian may want to stop by for a drink at the bar and a taste of those turnips (they really are astonishing) before heading elsewhere for a full meal.

Read also: The Undercover Vegetarian archives.


Want more Squid Ink? Follow us on Twitter or like us on Facebook.    

Use Current Location

Related Location

Allumette
miles

1320 Echo Park Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026

www.allumette.com