The Perfect Breakfast: Breakfast Burritos and Stumptown Coffee at Cofax
the Cofax chorizo breakfast burrito
Even if you're not a morning person, there are two things that you can probably agree on: excellent coffee and breakfast burritos, perhaps the greatest morning combination since, well, coffee and whatever else you've got. But, for reasons that maybe somebody should quiz Howard Schultz about, these two things are a surprisingly unusual combination.
Cofax, the newish Fairfax Avenue coffee shop (see: Sandy Koufax) from the folks behind Golden State, aims to solve this problem, at least locally. Open for about a month, Cofax is a small, bright and very cheerful coffeehouse a few doors up the street from Golden State itself, across the street from Animal and roughly diagonal from Canter's. Just so you know where you're going in your hungry, decaffeinated state.
They've been pulling shots of Stumptown espresso on their royal blue La Marzocco for weeks now, but as of this past July Fourth holiday weekend, they're also making breakfast burritos.
And not much else, proving yet again that it's best to do a few things very well. You can get Donut Snob doughnuts and granola parfaits to go with your coffee — but you're here for the burritos. They come in just two iterations: one with chorizo and one without. What they both have, with or without chorizo (which is not made in-house, sorry, but is still extraordinarily good), is egg and cheese and a potato hash that's smoked NOT in the maybe 1,000-foot space but at Bludso's, the Texas barbecue joint owned by the same folks on La Brea Boulevard.
Your burrito will come wrapped in both paper and foil and in a white paper bag, along with little containers of two salsas, a green, smoked-tomatillo sauce and a red chile de arbol sauce, which is, as you might imagine, considerably hotter. The burritos are large but not too much so, nicely halved for easy consumption (or sharing, if you get one of each), and perfectly cooked.
Cofax's Noah Galuten says they all spent a happy amount of time doing breakfast burrito research, and that he learned two things. One: that even bad breakfast burritos are very tasty. And two: that super hot griddles do not make the best-tasting or greatest-textured eggs. Thus the eggs in Cofax's burritos are cooked rather gently. For added crunch, the burritos have, instead of over-cooked eggs, the addition of tortilla chips.
Yes, there will probably be more food offerings at Cofax, perhaps a cold deli case with portable sandwiches. But if you want a proper sit-down lunch, go a few doors down to Golden State; if you want dinner, you know where to get that, too. In the meantime, order a coffee and a burrito and start your day happy.
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