The Dumpling Ground: Dim Sum in Koreatown?

Dear Mr Gold:

Why does Koreatown lack any form of proper dim sum? Are there secret dumpling hiding spots beyond the traditional Korean dumpling houses I have found?

—Aaron Schmidt, Koreatown

Dear Mr. Schmidt:

The Chinese cooking most popular with Koreans tends to be from the parts of China closest to Korea, including the Shandong and Dongbei areas, whose cooking is influenced by Korea itself. Dim sum is from China's south. In Koreatown, you will find hand-pulled noodles but no har gow; the boiled meat dumplings called mandoo but no shiu mai; delicious tteokbokki but no chow fun. If you want dim sum, you're just going to have to drive to San Gabriel like the rest of us. Or groove on the Korean dumplings, boiled, fried or steamed, at Ddo Wa.

It's up to you.

DDO WA: 3542 W. Third St., L.A. (213) 387-1288.


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