Tandoor at Heart
A collaboration between an American chef, a chef newly arrived from India and the Mumbai-based restaurant chain Gaylord, Tanzore is a new attempt to reinvent the modern restaurant as a place with a tandoor oven at its heart. Sleek and modern in the approved Wallpaper fashion, it’s accented with hints of exotica, decorated with bright silks, miscellaneous lotuses and big vials of spices. The soundtrack veers toward Bollywood. The wine list, unusually for an Indian restaurant, is large and idiosyncratic, with dozens of interesting wines available by both the glass and the taste, and the selection of beers is huge. With the exception of a couple of places in London and Floyd Cardoz’s Tabla in New York City, restaurants that attempt to combine Indian flavors with Western menu structures tend not to work especially well. Big protein is generally overwhelmed by the strong flavors, tiring the palate; if not, the spicing often seems tame. But there is a lot to recommend about Tanzore’s menu, which features mostly Indian dishes with Western twists: chicken tikka bathed in puréed herbs, tandoor-roasted sea bass with mustard seeds, well-spiced scallops with blood orange, a classic rogan josh, tapioca simmered in coconut milk and served with basil-scented syrup. 50 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 652-3838.
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