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Street: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

Street: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011

ANNE FISHBEIN

If you were to poll foodistas about L.A. kitchens of the 1980s, you would be likely to come up with a lot of affection for City Restaurant, where Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken explored the idea of L.A. multiculturalism better than any restaurant has before or since, strands of Korean, Indian and Thai cooking twisting from their neighborhoods up to the La Brea dining room. In Street, a hypercool restaurant on Hollywood's southern fringe, Feniger revisits some of the same transglobal ideas but with a direct, accessible twist: Street is a virtual museum of world street food, snacks and savories from every part of Asia — Singaporean kaya toast; Korean-style mung bean pancakes studded with bits of anise-braised pork belly; hollow, potato-stuffed Indian ping-pong balls called paani puri; even a delicious version of the do-it-yourself Thai bundles of roasted coconut, bird chiles, peanuts, tamarind jam and minced lime, among other things, but wrapped in bits of collard instead of the traditional la lot leaf — the beauty is in the mix. Half the menu is vegan-friendly, although you probably wouldn't notice that fact unless it was important to you, and at least as much attention seems to have been paid to the roster of rare beers. 742 N. Highland Ave., Hlywd. (323) 203-0500, eatatstreet.com. Lunch, Mon.-Sat., noon-3 p.m.; dinner, Sun.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-mid.; brunch, Sun., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, MC, V. Asian street food.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

A-Frame
Akasha
Alcazar
Angeli Caffe
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Antojitos Carmen
Attari
Babita
Bludso's
Border Grill
Bottega Louie
Bulgarini Gelato
Cacao
Campanile
Casa Bianca
Chang's Garden
Chego
Chichén Itzá
Chung King
Church & State
Ciro's
Comme Ça
Cut
Dae Bok
Din Tai Fung
Drago Centro
El Huarache Azteca
El Parian
Elvirita's
Euro Pane Bakery
Eva
Fab Hot Dogs
Father's Office
Fig
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Golden State
Good Girl Dinette
The Gorbals
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Huckleberry
Hungry Cat
Ink.
Jar
Jitlada
Kiriko
Kobawoo
La Casita Mexicana
Langer's
Larkin's
Lazy Ox Canteen
Le Comptoir
Little Dom's
Lou
Lucques
LudoBites
Lukshon
Mantee
Marouch
Mayura
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Mezze
Mo-Chica
Mother Dough
Mozza
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
The Nickel
Night + Market
Oinkster
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Park's Barbecue
Picca
Playa
Pollos a la Brasa
Providence
Ray's
Red Medicine
Rivera
Rustic Canyon
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Sea Harbour
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
Spice Table
Street
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Tasting Kitchen
Terroni
Tsujita L.A.
Vincenti
Waterloo & City

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Related Location

Susan Feniger's Street
miles

742 N. Highland Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90038

323-203-0500

www.eatatstreet.com