Simon’s newest steak house, Simon L.A. — across the street from the Beverly Center in the Sofitel space that has been underutilized since Patrick Terrail briefly relaunched Ma Maison there a decade ago — is a handsome, airy place, decorated with wooden, forestlike screens that give you the feeling of dining in an early Gerhard Richter painting. Simon L.A. is equipped with a well-executed menu of steaks and American comfort food — heirloom tomato salads, lobster rolls, mac ’n’ cheese, astonishingly good hamburgers and beachy seafood, priced for the expense-account crowd. And there’s a gooey chocolate-caramel-banana whatever for dessert that will gladden the heart of anybody’s inner 11-year-old. Simon L.A., 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (310) 278-5444.
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